Vilcabamba Ecuador

AKA (Also Known As) The Valley of Longevity,

The Sacred Valley & God's Valley

Location: Vilcabamba is located at the juncture of five valleys in Ecuador's southernmost state, Loja. It has an altitude of 5000 feet above sea level. Vilcabamba has been noted for its centenarians (people over 100 years old), perpetual spring climate (temperatures run from 65 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit, year round), and its hallucinogenic San Pedro cactus. Many of its inhabitants simply refer to it as paradise.

Vilcabamba is comprised of two words in the Incan dialect that is spoken by many of the indigenous people of Ecuador. First is the word huilco which means “sacred” or “God”. The second word bamba means “valley”. So huilco bamba with a little migration of sounds becomes Vilcabamba or “sacred valley”. It is clearly a sacred valley in a magical location. Mandango which towers over the town from most perspectives displays the profile of a face looking toward the heavens. Perhaps it was this profile that contributed the sacred part of the name. From other vantage points it appears as a sleeping man or woman. The Quichuas believe Mandango is a sleeping Incan king.

Most travelers enter Vilcabamba by way of Loja, a southern Sierra city of about 130,000 inhabitants. We took a bus from Loja to Vilcabamba (about 90 minutes of travel time and costing $1.00) which took us first up through the cloud forest, then down into a lush conglomerate of palm, papaya, and banana trees and fields of sugar cane to the small town of Malacatos. We slowed down here only long enough for some of the school children who had boarded the bus in Loja to disembark and other passengers to climb aboard at several stops.

From Malacatos we climbed to the pass between Malacatos and Vilcabamba. Because we were on a bus our view was restricted and we really had no idea how much longer the trip would take. We arrived in a small bus terminal in Vilcabamba and disembarked to discover ourselves in a high valley (five thousand feet above sea level) surrounded by massive mountains that towered as much as 18,000 feet high, Mandango soared a staggering thirteen thousand feet above where we stood. We had read the statics but were none the less amazed by the actual sight.

I am told that accommodations can be pretty full around the local festival in late May and during Carnival in February

A fine meal and a fine view. The hosteria is a little far out of town for me because I like to walk into town and browse around but you won't get food or a view much better than what is to be had at Izhcayluma.

Vilcabamba is one large photo op. It is fun to just scout the side streets looking for color. Here I found ORANGE!

It is kind of a sad color, abandoned, actually. Poets don't use it, it doesn't rhyme with anything, but it does sing to the eye.  

By the time we had checked in to our hostel, Le Rendez-Vous, and caught our breath it was getting dark.

We strolled down to the plaza and located a place that served pizza and cold beer. From our table at the front of our restaurant we had a nice view of the plaza. It was then that we discovered that the fountain in the center of the plaza was the primary gathering place for the children and teenagers of Vilcabamba.

By the way, the pizza was good.

Our first view of the area was from the patio of our room the next morning. Mandango is partially swaddled in clouds. The air was cool and the day promised to be fair. We were awaiting our breakfast to be prepared and delivered.

How thoughtful! Le Rhendz-Vous provided hammocks for each room. Our hammock was absolutely irrestiable to my husband after breakfast.

Our breakfast was a choice of scrambled eggs or a fruit plate served with home made bread, fresh juice and coffee. Much to our surprise a fifty cent tip thrilled our waiter and set us up for cheerful service from that moment forward.

And yes, we had hot water.

By the time we had recovered from breakfast the clouds over Mandango actually seemed to be settling in instead of burning off, but it turned out to be a beautiful day anyway. The temperature was moderate and the humidity was just a little high for people from the high desert and the evening was just divine. No rain until after we had turned in for the night.

The garden in the center of the Le Rendez-Vous Hostel was neat and well maintained. We would go for a walk, go back to our room, rest and read and set off again. The garden was a constant source of peace and relaxation, and the hammock was my husband’s favorite place to read.

A word about the climate: The year round temperatures in Vilcabamba range from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. There are two seasons: the rainy season which begins in October and ends in May, and the dry season which begins in June and runs through September.

The rainy season is when the valley and surrounding mountains are at their greenest. The sun usually shines in the mornings and early afternoon. Rain usually starts around 4:00 to 6:00 PM and ends before 7:00AM.

The Dry season begins in June and is boosted along by strong winds that usually begin in July and continue through August. These winds dry out much of the valley. The Chamba River and the Yambala River and the irrigation systems they feed keep some parts of the valley green even during the dry season.

My husband finally had to ask what the fruit was. It turned out to be avocados the size of grapefruit. Don't hold my feet to the fire on this but I am pretty sure the owner said this tree was seven years old.

Agriculture: The growing season is a yearlong phenomenon and produces papaya and mountain papaya (babaco), mangos, oranges, grapefruit, lemons, pineapple, passion fruit, bananas, sugar cane, coffee, melons and a host of tropical fruits that I can’t describe or name.

The soil produces nutritious examples of the fruits and vegetables grown here because of the high and well balanced mineral content of the soil. Chelated minerals and organic material contribute to the rich nutritional value of the produce and may be a factor in the reputation of Vilcabamba as the “valley of longevity.”

Clean mineralized water doesn't hurt your chances for a long a healthy life.

We took an evening drive south of Vilcabamba and drove right into this incredible sunset

We have been maried for 47 years and still enjoy nothing more than each others company. On this evening we ate an early supper and took a drive to the south of Vilcabamba. Our son and daughter-in-law were with us. We talked, laughed, and sat in silence. That evening drive is one of my favorite Ecuador memories as of now but we shall continue to make Ecuador memories.

South of vilcabamba these strange rock formations are right on the shoulder of the road so there is no nature trail to hike to get an interesting photo. I will arrange to go earlier in the day next time.

Here we learned of an interesting custom. During carnival it is customary to throw water on anyone and everyone. In Vilcabamba they throw water and spray each other with some kind of foam that comes in a can. In other parts they throw water on you and then throw flowers at you. In still other parts they throw water and then throw flour on you. I understand it makes a pretty good form of paste.

For some reason the officials of Vilcabamba have cut back on the days that water can be thrown and prohibited it from being thrown on police officers entirely. Water can only be thrown on the Sunday of carnival in town, however, on private land anything goes. They haven't done anything about the foam though. We sat on the plaza on the Sunday before carnival and watched children of all ages happily spray just about everyone with white foam.

The sales of water guns with back pack type water tanks didn't seem to suffer from the curtailed liberties.

This gentleman turned up every evening for a stroll and a brief rest. It seems that many residents feel that a walk in the plaza is an essential part of every day.

Vilcabamba still has corner stores. The upper floor was just made for the three young girls that patroled the balcony throwing water on those below.

We had a parrot named Rico. I think this was the most unfortunate choice for a pet we ever made. Dogs and cats are one thing but there was no way we could offer this bird the kind of freedom he deserved. These birds live a long time and require a long term commitment.

Don't let the lack of traffic fool you. There aren't a lot of cars on the street because most of the local population walks almost every where they go. It is an easy town to walk in. Most people walk down the street because the curb is the domain of the buildings that front it.

The large pink building is the Mandango Hostal. We took a look at the rooms. They were clean and above all bright. If you actually want to share a bed with your partner requesa a matrimonial, that will get you 1 double bed. At the Mandango that would run you about $17.00.

Purely for your edification and to perhaps save you some embarrassment, hotels and hostels are for sleeping; motels are for sex and frequently rent by the hour.

95% of Ecuadorians are Catholic. The religion seems to lie dormant except for festivals and holidays. This church in Vilcabamba doesn't look much different from many in the US on the outside. It is the interior that shouts Latin America. The cross is outlined in neon and the lights are subtly colored.

We have noticed that many churches in the coastal areas are almost open aired. Minimal structure with wrought iron bars covering the glassless windows. The climate is very conducive to this kind of building. I wonder if an open sanctuary would have been a better choice for Vilcabamba.

Yes! The cross is outlined with neon. And it looks just fine. The ingenuity of the Ecuradorians is stunning and they embrace modern materials in a way that will take us years to understand or implement.

After dark, in a gentle rain, the plaza is essentially deserted. The rain falling did not deter the young people from hanging out. Ecuadorians seem to have made the remarkable discovery that people are waterproof. The rain comes down warm and on this evening it fell gently until morning.

St. Valentine's day and a latin lover is hard at work. Valentine's Day seems to be quite a big deal in South America. Love was in the air. Couples flooded the plaza and strolled around hand in hand. Restaurants were flooded with young couples celebrating the day.

The morning view from the bedroom window of the house we rented for a week.

There were no screens on the windows and the kitchen door was a wrought iron gate that we padlocked at night.

We didn't miss screens much. Our bedroom also attracted a few fireflies which we watched until sleep overcame us, although at some point during the night a beetle the size and decibel rating of a helicopter came through the window and settled on our lamp shade.

Other than that ... no problem!

If you are afraid of dogs it may be time for some therapy. They are everywhere in Ecuador. Most are not aggressive. I have yet to see a viscious dog in ecuador!

According to a few of my archeological friends, San Pedro cactus has been used in traditional Andean medicine for at least 2000 years by cultures throughout South America. It was prevelant in the Moche culture in Peru and probably in many other cultures. Modern medicine employs the plant, a known antimicrobial agent, in the treatment of joint pain, nervous conditions, heart disease, addiction, and high blood pressure.

San Pedro cactus contains mescaline and for that reason it is concidered to be a psychedelic plant.

Longevity! Really? Well, maybe. Factors that could contribute to the legend (which is now controversial) would include clean air, a laid back, live and let live attitude, pure mineralized water, nutritious organic produce, the lack of need to hop in a car every time you need to go somewhere, the lack of widely fluctuating temperatures and the natural detoxification of your body due to the increased walking and consumption of clean air and healthy food. And it does the attitude a world of good to be surrounded by so much natural beauty.

You will find a high percentage of English speakers here due to the ever increasing population of American and English settlers as well as French, German, Canadian and a sprinkling of other nationalities. For a small town in the southern reaches of Ecuador the population is surprisingly international.

When we visited Vilcabamba last year in February we talked to several expats who found that a couple could live quite comfortably for between $500.00 to $600.00 a month.

A taxi ride to anywhere in town or nearby area was $1.00. A taxi is almost always a pickup truck which makes a trip into Loja to pick up supplies easy and convenient.

There are many excellent restaurants and good clean accommodations available in town and nearby environs.

Lots of spectacular hiking trails accessible from Vilcabamba means as long as you can walk there will be something new to see. These trails are rated from very easy to medium difficult. Whatever they are rated, sunscreen is a good idea.

There is a zoo and orchid garden just out side of town. Mountain bikes or horses can be rented in town. You can also find guided tours of the rainforest and Podocarpus National Forest. Two to three day ecotours are also available.

Oh! After a hard day of hiking or strolling or doing next to nothing you can finish off with an excellent massage or spa treatment. Doesn’t sound half bad does it?

For those of you from big cities or used to a wild nightlife Vilcabamba may be a little tame. There was one night club in Vilcabamba when we were there.

Lest you forget - Vilcabamba exists in two (or more) worlds. Burrows and computers, neon crosses, agricultural methods that date back to the days before the Incas and paved highways. Almost every arena of life in Eucador is a waltz between the ancient and the modern and then back again.

The Podocarpus National Park is the most biodiverse park in the world. It is composed of 360,000 hectors of land. There are micro-climates in the park that do not exist anywhere else in Ecuador. This accounts for the broad range of flora and fauna found in the park. Altitudes range from almost 11,000 feet to a low of 6,000 feet. There are more than 100 lakes in the park and countless streams and waterfalls. Vegetation runs the gamut from the giant Podocarpus conifers to nearly microscopic orchids.

Animal life is also diverse. There have been over 600 species of birds sighted (and counting), a startling 61 species of hummingbirds, and 81 varieties of tanagers. There are also deer, ocelot, speckled bears, tapir, and puma. Many good bird watching spots are easily accessed.

We are in Ecuador now and expect to be here until the 4th of December. We are hitting the for a tour of the Andes in our trusty little car. We will probably work a return to Vilcabamba in the next few months. I'll be updating this site when we arrive in Vilcabamba.

I know our style of travel may be disconcerting but we can't change now. We travel 'till we see something interesting then we stop. This makes for a whole lot of side trips, prolonged stays, and avoidance of standard tourist stops. It leads to surprises - good and bad - disappointments, and joyful discoveries. 

Stay tuned and ride along!

http://hubpages.com/hub/Healing-in-Ecuador to see the lovely town of Baños

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ecotour-Otavalo-and-Cotacachi for a look at Cotacachi.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Vilcabamba gives you a look at the Valley of Longevity

http://hubpages.com/hub/Bahia-de-Caraquez for a look at Bahia de Caráquez, a beautiful and peaceful (except for the parades) beach city.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Otavalo-Shopping-Therapy-for-the-Craft-Obsessed for a comprehensive view of Otavalo’s famous indigenous market

http://hubpages.com/hub/Zaruma for a look at this famous gold mining city. This one is a work in progress as we will be returning to Zaruma to explore the possibilities of using it as a permanent base.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ecuador-Favorites to see many of my favorite photos taken in Ecuador with commentary.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ecuador-Favorite-Photos for pictures of some of my favorite places in Ecuador with commentary.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Ecuador-Folklore to see some interesting talismans I have come across in Ecuador.

http://hubpages.com/hub/Bahia-de-Caraquez-the-Malecon to take a closer look at the Malecon during a holiday.

http://hubpages.com/hub/San-Clemente-to-Bahia to discover the beach that becomes a road at low tide.